This will be a quick one, as I have a latte to drink before it gets cold. I am in California, meeting my family before heading to Maui for a wedding and then back to California for my college reunion. So before the events of the next two weeks–
I feel a little fresh off the boat to say the least. I divided by 0 when the customs official asked me why I was visiting China, and I had to explain that, actually, it was the US that I was visiting. Money has flummoxed me too: I can’t really understand how people distinguish bills when they are all the same shape and color. And this concept of adding tax to prices resulting in inelegant numbers, like $8.61, seemed very odd to me; in China, prices are in denominations of 1s and 10s, with no fractional and useless change. When my sister went to pay for a $2.06 coffee with her credit card, nobody batted an eye.
Americans come in all shapes, colors, ages and sizes, but everyone I met has shared that perfect pearly smile. Why are all these people smiling at me? What do they want from me? It’s a little unsettling.
Silicon Valley in particular is bizarre. I am sitting in a cafe at 10 am with a circle of a dozen ladies who lunch in spandex yoga suits and sundry comfortably-dressed intellectuals reading the paper or on the internet. Get over the fact that the WiFi I am using to connect to Gmail has been provided by Google itself — Big Brother anyone? — but getting lost driving around this part of the country is like wandering aimlessly on the web: there’s VeriSign, with a lovely fountain over its blue tile corporate logo, and Palm, a megaplex branded with 20 foot orange circle corporate logos, next to BMC Software, down the street from Coupons.com and StartupYou’veNeverHeardOf.com or eThis and eThat.
Appropriately I have been reading Stanford Magazine, which is actually really good (and may indeed inspire me more to donate the alma), which talks about algorithms and mountain climbing and equality and eating habits. Stanford, and this little famous valley, are driven by curiosity and the sense that any imaginable is possible.
Beijing is like that too, I suppose, but in a different way. Outside the window of my cafe are a parking lots, seven American flags, and trees in every color of foliage.
I am not in China anymore.
Eeps, battery dying, and my three pronged plug doesn’t work in this country. I wonder if buying a converter for my power source will be as hard as converting back to an American myself….
Cheers,
Liz
Blog
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California dream
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Bells and brakes
A good opening sentence should be like a vodka shot: clear, quick, strong, and with a sharp finish that gets you reved up for what comes next — i.e. it shouldn’t ramble on like this Aabservation does with no intention of stopping, completely unrelated to the main topic: in this case, the question “bells or brakes?”, a with-us-or-against-us type of question which came up last night, when I was biking to a party and panicked for a moment when I realized my brakes were worn out — but quickly regained confidence (and speed) as I realized that my bicycle bell at least was working, meaning that instead of slowing down, I could just announce my arrival and others would get out of my way, which I did, often, and in so doing realized that I would rather have a fully functional bell than fully functional brakes — perhaps a revelation about a change in my attitude toward risk-taking since moving to China (or perhaps the attitude that brought me here in the first place?) — and beyond just me, I started to wonder whether China itself is a country that values bells or brakes more — a question which, after a considerable period of high-speed contemplation (and pedaling), I came to conclude: yes, China is indeed a country that would rather be able to slow down safely than charge forward bells a-ringing (think of China’s slow unwind of capital controls, its patient and quiet emergence as an international power, and the truly measured pace of its transition from a centrally planned economy to an open one), while the US is the country with the largest bells in the world, and which loves ringing them (think of the US’s strong attitude to foreign relations and its love of global media attention)… though I’d love to hear back from you whether you agree with this assessment and (perhaps more interestingly) whether you would rather have working bells or working brakes, with only one requirement for your reply: that you, like me in this Aabservation, try writing using as many punctuation bells & whistles as possible (bonus if you can incorporate Chinese backward commas and <> quotes), but that you strictly forbid yourself from using a period to brake your train of thought (a ridiculous challenge — I know — inspired by a hilarious and geeky late night conversation on punctuation in a rooftop bar with a handful of copy-editors, writers, researchers and blumblum friends): a gimmick which is (outside of Victorian literature and legal documents) only sustainable for so long, and eventually (as you can see) must at some point come to an end.
Cheers, Liz
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Take the First
Perhaps it’s just because I’ve been living in China for so long that I’m intrigued by the ideas of a safe protest for freedom of expression and the press, a petition I can’t get in trouble for signing, and a public gathering to voice an opinion.
Or maybe it’s because I’m still a New Yorker that when my friend Ame sent me news that the Mayor’s Office is considering requiring permits and $1mm liability insurance for all filming in New York City–vaguely enough written to include amateur movies, webcasts, photos, wedding scenes– I had to spread the word. (more…)
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Back in a suit
After a wonderful year and four months of persuading monks to wear bunny ear muffs while overlooking Mount Everest, blowing on beer bottle tops as part of a music ensemble, teaching 600 students English by singing ‘I will survive!’ on a Saturday afternoon in rural Yunnan, inadvertently biking through military training exercises in a patch of forest behind downtown Beijing, staring at a perfectly flat plain with no trees for two days on the cross Australian railroad, and drinking a lot of green tea, I am now back in a suit and working full time in Beijing. (more…)
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Excel tips and keyboard shortcuts
Useful tips that take a moment to learn, and save a lifetime of frustration. (more…)
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Sub Urbia
Shanghai sprawl from JinMao Tower.

Shanghai suburbanization photo by Elizabeth Aab is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Share Alike 3.0 License. .
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at Ozmo“Most of the building… is being done by people who don’t like cities. They do not merely dislike the noise and the dirt and the congestion. They dislike the city’s variety and concentration, its tension, its hustle and bustle. The new redevelopment projects will physically be in the city, but in the spirit they deny it –and the values that since the beginning of civilization have always been at the heart of great cities.”— William Whyte, The Exploding Metropolis, 1958. Talking about New York.This quote was in an exhibit I saw when I was in NY at Columbia University on Robert Moses, the (in)famous developer of New York during the mid 20th century. But it could just have well been used to describe Beijing (or Chengdu, Shanghai, Kunming, Xi’an, Chongqing, Qingdao or any major Chinese city) today.New York is an eminently walkable city, built (more…) -
The ruse of law
So you want to do business in China, but you keep hearing about the fact that there is no “rule of law,” or that it’s “unsafe.” Well, last night I sat down with a lawyer friend of mine, and listened as she told me the biggest potholes in the road of China Opportunity.
At one point, my stomach full of Korean food and my brain stuffed with terms like “judicial review” and “normative law” I asked her to stop. “I don’t get it,” I said. “This doesn’t make any sense. Can you explain it again?”
She smiles and says, “No, if you don’t get it, that actually means you get it.”
So what is fishy about the Chinese legal system? I don’t know law from a chicken leg, but here are three things I’d be careful about: (more…)
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City dreamers
The rents for one-bedroom apartments in Manhattan average $2,567 a month, and two-bedrooms average $3,854 a month, according to data from Citi Habitats, a large rental brokerage company, but rents tend to be far higher in coveted neighborhoods like the Upper West Side and TriBeCa.
Because landlords typically require renters to earn 40 times their monthly rent in annual income, renters of those average apartments would need to earn at least $102,680, individually or combined, to qualify for a one-bedroom and $154,160 to afford a two-bedroom.
— Christine Haughney, “New York City Renters Cope With Squeeze.” The New York Times. May 10, 2007. http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/10/nyregion/10rent.html
I read articles like this about NY rents, and I wonder what will happen to the City of Dreamers — a city built on the energy of young guys with aspirations to invent, create, change and build. Will NY instead become a city of people who aspire to pay their rent? Who swap out of jobs in journalism and culinary arts and teaching and non-profits in order to go for the more solid banker/doctor/lawyer slots? (more…) -
How do Chinese people stay thin eating Chinese food all day?
I had forgotten that Americans didn’t all look as flawless as the actors on Friends. And that they weren’t all 20 to 30 year old, well-educated, well-off, well-dressed globe trotters.
So when I arrived in Chicago after spending over a year in China, I felt like I had walked onto the Starship Enterprise. There were teenagers. With real live acne. (more…)
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Plumbing (Back in NY)
Last week in New York, people asked me over and over, “What’s the biggest culture shock coming back to New York after 14 months in China?”
It was the plumbing, for sure. (more…)